“Dave! Come on man. You’re wasting your time!”
I kept standing with my camera where it was dry as he clutched his board and started stepping out into the ocean. I should have known he was going to do something like this. We were only here to do a photo shoot.
He nodded, puckered his lips and yelled out,
“I told you that I need to feel that feeling again!”
He did tell me that once. Years ago. He admitted he found what he was looking for but now — because he absorbs all of his emotions — he couldn’t even recognize what was real. He told me that he was losing his mind not being in Hawaii, not participating in the competitions anymore. I felt as if I had to let him know,
“You’re acting crazy, dude! Those waves aren’t even for surfing!”
But he didn’t stop. He just turned his head and said,
“Why not embrace the lavishness of the water, the rocks, and the sun? Why not indulge in this paradise!”
© 2017 Gerald Samms. All rights reserved.