#6

Daredevil

China Beach, British Columbia
CANADA

“Dave! Come on man. You’re wasting your time!”

I kept standing with my camera where it was dry as he clutched his board and started stepping out into the ocean. I should have known he was going to do something like this. We were only here to do a photo shoot. He turned towards me, puckered his lips and spoke,

“I told you that I need to feel that feeling again.”

He did tell me that once. Years ago. He admitted he found what he was looking for but now — because he absorbs all of his emotions — he couldn’t even recognize what was real. He told me that he was losing his mind not being in Hawaii, not participating in the competitions anymore. I felt as if I had to let him know,

“You’re acting crazy! Those waves aren’t even for surfing!”

But he didn’t stop. He just yelled out in a devilish way and said,

“Why not embrace the lavishness of the water, the rocks, and the sun! Why not indulge this paradise!”


© 2017 Gerald Samms. All rights reserved.

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